Not all Polyquats are created equal
Poly-why? Poly-who? Polyquat?
You may have seen these ingredients in your favorite products and wondered what the heck is a polyquaternium? Sounds like it’s probably harmful to my hair … Well, these active ingredients are actually conditioning agents that provide lovely benefits, but could also have the potential to build up.
If you are using products that contain a lot of polyquats and are experiencing frequent build-up … it might be worth taking a second look at these ingredients.
What is a Polyquat?
For our purposes … Polyquats are cationic conditioning agents, which by definition are ingredients that improve the quality of another material. Benefits include improving shine and softness, while reducing frizz, fly aways, breakage and split-ends.
Fun Fact: The numbers are assigned in the order in which they are registered rather than their chemical structure.
Conditioning agents and build-up
According to the Science-y Hair Blog, all conditioning agents have the potential to build-up, but that doesn’t mean everyone’s hair will accumulate build-up.
Definitely check out that article, but an important takeaway from it is this amazing list of polyquats and their potential to build up. I summarized her list below and I hope this helps you decide which polyquats are right for you.
Higher Build-Up Potential
- Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride: Very good for detangling, especially detangling wet hair which is why it is used in shampoos.
- Polyquaternium-4: Has film-forming properties and is usually used to provide “hold” in styling products and also thicken a product.
Moderate Build-Up Potential
- Polyquaternium-7: Used to lessen the drying effect of detergents and add a “conditioned” feel to products so hair or skin feel soft. It helps detangle wet and dry hair and may help create shine.
- Polyquaternium -11: Often used in hair mousses because it provides light hold. This ingredient can give hair a tacky feel while on the hair and after rinsing.
- Polyquaternium-55 – An excellent heat protectant that helps hair retain dyed color longer. Has potential for “over-conditioning.”
- Hydroxypropyltrimonium When this term precedes an ingredient, it means it has been modified to have a cationic charge. These ingredients provide slip and softness and help reduce frizz, but will stick to your hair causing build-up.
- Polyquatermium-59 – This ingredient is UV light absorbing qualities, which means sun protection! This is added benefit of protection for your hair, so might not be a bad thing if you are in the sun a lot.
Lower Build-Up Potential
- Polyquaternium-10 – It is often used in shampoos for detangling and styling products to provide light hold. This may be removable with a polyquaternium-free, anionic (sulfate or olefin sulfonate) shampoo.
- Polyquaternium-69 – Weakly cationic film-former for hold in hair products. Likely to be removed after 1-2 shampooings.
- Polyquaternium-37 – Used for conditioning for limp, thin or “fine” hair. Reported to help improve volume and body in hair.
- Polyquaternium-44 – Used in some shampoos and was designed as an alternative to Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride and other more build-up provoking ingredients.
- Polyquaternium-87 – Created as an alternative to Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride used for detangling, creating a soft feel and frizz control. Will be removed after 1-2 shampoos.
- Polyquaternium-47 – An amphoteric conditioning ingredient used for detangling and softening hair.
For a more scientific explanation on Polyquats, check out these articles:
Is it CG?
The easiest way to analyze all of the different ingredients in your hair products is to use the Is It CG? app. Simply paste the ingredients into the app and it will automatically analyze them and provide a breakdown of what each ingredient will do for your hair. Good or Bad!
